Free Clone Craigslist Programming

This Instructable will show you how to build a ride-able Segway clone. Here are its features: • Easy to build with no welding, no complicated steering linkage and minimal soldering. • Uses a readily available $3 digital MPU6050 accelerometer/gyro IMU board. • Total parts cost is under $400 (including shipping). A real Segway is $5000!

• No salvage, dumpster diving or Craigslist parts. • A detailed parts list and ALL purchasable sources are included.

Learn Ruby on Rails - Build a Craigslist Clone. While these are fantastic conventions when working on a production-level application, the value cannot be appreciated if you're new to programming. I did the course using codenvy free account and just set up my.ssh key to work with my github. So, if I 'get. Subscribe and SAVE, give a gift subscription or get help with an existing subscription by clicking the links below each cover image.

• Well documented with over 50 minutes of HD how-to video, pictures and a detailed plan. • Uses the very common Arduino UNO processor board. • All Arduino processor code is included.

NO additional Arduino libraries need to be installed. This is a great learning project. It involves: • wood working • metal working • plumbing techniques • wiring from schematics • micro controller (Arduino) C like coding • accelerometer/gyro basics I would say that a motivated middle schooler (12+ year old) with a parental figure could tackle this project. If the motivation isn't in the technical learning and assembly, it will be in the riding fun! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- UPDATE: There is a separate Step 1: Introduction Video. • With the Segway clone leaning forward, it's front edge touching the ground, toggle the power switch on.

• The LED will glow red. Wait about 8 seconds for the MPU6050 Accelerometer/gyro to calibrate. • Lift up the board so it is parallel to the ground. • Hold in the deadman switch.

The LED will turn green. • Step on the board. • Lean forward to go forward and lean back to go backward. • While you are moving, you can press the steering rocker switch to go left or right. • You can press the tilt rocker switch to adjust the neutral balancing position of the board.

Step 3: How to Build the Segway Clone Video. The Segway Clone Arduino code is below: The Arduino code development took the longest amount of time to get right in this Instructable. It could still be improved.

Any ideas would be appreciated. • This project includes cutting, drilling and soldering. Please wear safety gear and be careful. • Riding on a 2 wheel device that is inherently unstable is dangerous. You will fall off it and crash into things.

You are responsible for your own safety. Wear protective gear. • The real Segway device can be dangerous even though it has safety shutoffs and error detection. This Segway clone has NO safety detection or elegant shutdown. Ride at your own risk.

• This Segway corporation video clip shows some of the dangers riding the real Segway device may have. I found it useful to watch before riding this Segway clone: • Putting your fingers inside a chain and gear drive while the motor is running will remove your fingers. • Lead Acid batteries should be recycled and not thrown in the trash. Step 11: Cut and Prepare Wood Riding Platform. We'll start this by cutting our plywood base.

I used birch plywood. Any 3/4' plywood piece that can finish to 29' by 17 1/4' will do. I cut the piece on a table-saw.

If you do this, use eye protection and watch your hands. You can use a hand saw as well. Accuracy in cutting is not critical but if you applying plywood edge tape, it needs to be smooth. Optional: Use a coffee can or something with around a 3' radius to mark curves on the corners. A compass set to 3' will work as well.

Cut the corners with a jigsaw or a coping hand saw. Optional: Sand and then apply iron on edge tape to the edges. Optional: Sand top and bottom of board. Step 12: Cut and Drill Brackets. NOTE: this step is not shown in the how to make video clip. See plans and read this text. Get the four 8' x 8' x 2' angle brackets.

Two of them will be outside brackets. Two of them will be inside brackets. See the.pdf file of the plans for a drawing of the brackets.

To make the 2 outside brackets, do this twice: • Use a hacksaw to cut off 1.5' from the end of a bracket arm. Length should be 6.5' when done. Clean up with a flat file. • Use a hacksaw to cut off 2 1/4' off the end of the other bracket arm. Length should be 5 3/4' when done. Clean up with a flat file.

• Use a metal punch to make a mark centered between the end 2 holes of the 6.5' bracket arm. • Drill this hole out with a 3/8' or.375' drill bit.

This will hold the wheel axle. Use a drill lubricant when drilling metal. • Widen this drilled hole with a Dremel or round file to make it 0.40' and test that it will fit the wheel axle. • Punch and drill four 1/4' holes in the bottom of the 5 3/4' bracket arm. See drawing for position. It is not critical.

To make the 2 inside brackets, do this twice: • Use a hacksaw to cut off 1.5' from the end of a bracket arm. Length should be 6.5' when done.

Clean up with a flat file. • Use a metal punch to make a mark centered between the end 2 holes of the 6.5' bracket arm. • Drill this hole out with a 3/8' or.375' drill bit.

This will hold the wheel axle. Use a drill lubricant when drilling metal. • Widen this drilled hole with a Dremel or file to make it 0.40' and test that it will fit the wheel axle. • Punch and drill four 1/4' holes in the bottom of the 8' bracket arm. See drawing for position.

It is not critical. Tips: • When drilling into metal, it's better to use a drill press if you have access to one. It goes faster and the hole will be straighter. • When drilling into metal, it helps to use a lubricant between the metal and the drill bit. The lubricant takes the heat away from the hole. WD-40 is a great lubricant. Don't run the drill bit too fast.

Stop and let the hole cool off occasionally. Step 13: Mount Brackets Under Platform. Grab the 8x8x8 brackets, wheels, chain, 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 in. Zinc-Plated Hex Flange Bolts, nuts and washers. • Measure 4.5' in from an edge and mark a line.

This will be the outer line that the bracket will rest on. • Place brackets on board bottom as shown in drawing, pictures and video.

• Mark 4 1/4' holes per bracket with a pencil. • Remove brackets and punch center of each hole lightly. This is to center the drill bit.

• Drill holes with a 1/4' drill bit. • Remove brake assemblies from the wheels if they are on still. See picture above.

• Attach brackets with wheels and chain to board with (16) 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 in. Zinc-Plated Hex Flange Bolts, nuts and washers. Step 14: Mount Motors to Platform. The motor has a bracket attached to it with 4 pre-threaded metric screw holes. • Set motor up so chain is straight and motor gear is perpendicular to the wheel brackets. • Pull gently on motor away from the wheels and mark the 4 holes.

• Note that you may want to use a short piece of pencil lead to mark the motor holes. • Repeat for the other motor. • Punch the 8 holes and drill with a 7/32' drill bit. • Insert a washer and an M6 1.0x30mm bolt into each hole and tighten it. Step 15: Crimp on Battery Wires. Find an extension cord to cannibalize or use speaker wire for this step. • Cut 2 lengths per the drawing.

• Mark the bumpy ridged side of all ends of the cords. This will indicate our negative side. • Separate the end of one side on each wire and strip it 1/4'. • optional: slide small pieces of heat shrink tubing to each extension cord wire. • Twist on the black motor wire to the bumpy ridged marked extension cord wire. Do the same with the red wire to the other extension cord wire.

• Heat shrink tubing OR cover with electrical tape. Step 17: Install Galvanized Floor Flange. UPDATE: You may want to reference that to modify your design. A few of the parts will change.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The 1-1/2 in. Galvanized Floor Flange is used to connect the PVC handle bar assembly. • Mark the center line of the 29' long side of the board. • Center the Floor Flange in this line about 1/4' away from the edge of the board. See pics, drawing and video.

• Mark all 5 holes. • Drill 4 1/4' holes for the screws. • Drill 1 1 1/8' hole (using a spade bit) for the wires to pass through this 1-1/2 in.

Galvanized Floor Flange. • Install Four 1/4' 20 x 1-1/2 in. Flat Head Phillips Machine Screws with washers and nuts. Step 18: Cut the PVC Pipe. Get the circular 'deadman' switch and the 2 rocker type switches. You should hold these switches on the dry fit to see where you want them. The measurements I give here are for what I did.

Get switches to fit in this step. We'll add the wires later. Deadman circular switch • Mark a hole on one of the 10.25' PVC pieces 4' from the end. • Drill a hole in the center with a 3/8' drill bit.

Reverse the bit for a while to start the hole if need be. • File the hole or use a dremel tool to widen the hole to about 0.45' to allow switch to fit in the hole. It should be snug and NOT use glue.

You may want to practice the following rocker switch hole cutting on scrap PVC first. Also, watch the vid. Steering Rocker switch • Mark a hole on one of the 10.25' PVC pieces 6' from the end. • around the center of the hole, mark a rectangle that is 1 1/16' by 9/16'. • Using a small 1/16' drill bit, drill many holes INSIDE the rectangle EDGE. Use the drill bit to 'cut' through the PVC, connecting the holes you drilled to cut out the rectangle.

An alternative method is to use a Dremel tool for this with a cutter bit. • File the hole or use a Dremel tool to widen the hole to allow the switch to fit in the hole. It should be snug and NOT use glue. Steering Tilt switch • Mark a hole on one of the 31.5' PVC piece 4.5' from the end. • around the center of the hole, mark a rectangle that is 1 1/16' by 9/16'.

• Using a small 1/16' drill bit, drill many holes INSIDE the rectangle EDGE. Use the drill bit to 'cut' through the PVC, connecting the holes you drilled to cut out the rectangle. An alternative method is to use a Dremel tool for this with a cutter bit. • File the hole or use a Dremel tool to widen the hole to allow the switch to fit in the hole. It should be snug and NOT use glue.

Step 20: Harvest the Wire. If you are using Cat5 cable, you can 'harvest' or remove the wire pairs like this. • Strip the end of the cable to remove the outer plastic insulation. • Put the 8 wires in a vice. • Go to the other end and pull on the insulation.

• Go back to the beginning of the cable near the vice and slowly pull the insulation down. • It will come off a little at a time.

Better way from another Instructables user!: Mar 19, 2014. 1:59 PM rmelchiori says: There is an easier way to strip the outer jacket of cat5 cable. If you pull down on the thin nylon floss, it will cut the jacket and open it up like pulling a zipper. Step 21: Prepare PVC Switch Wires. Measure out the switch wires. • Use electrical phone type wire that is about 6' long. I used CAT5 Ethernet cable which has 4 twisted pairs of conductors.

• One pair is for the deadman switch. • To make the 3 conductor tilt and steer cables, separate out one pair into 2 individual wires: • A fast way to do this is to put one end in a in a drill chuck, attach the other end to a vice or have a buddy hold it.

Spin the drill to loosen the wires so you get 2 non-twisted individual wires. • Now, take one individual wire and add it to a twisted pair. You will have 3 wires. Put one end in a in a drill chuck, attach the other end to a vice or have a buddy hold it. Spin the drill to tighten the spin of the wires together. • Repeat for the other 3 wire cable.

Step 22: Optional: Epoxy PVC Reducer Into Floor Flange. This step is optional but recommended so the handle bars don't twist while you are riding. • Take the epoxy tubes. Squeeze out about 3/4' of each the resin and hardener on a piece of scrap paper. • Mix the 2 gels together until its a consistent dark grey color.

• Apply the mixture to the white PVC threads of the PVC 1.5' to 1.25' reducing male adapter. • Screw this PVC 1.5' to 1.25' reducing male adapter into the Floor Flange on the board. Hand tighten. • Wait 10 minutes for the epoxy to dry. Step 23: Install Switches in PVC. Get the PVC Cleaner and Glue.

An alternative to PVC glue is to use epoxy. You are working around the snaked wires so lay it out on a table. Do it in this order: • End caps • Handles to Tee.

(watch the switch positions!) • Tee to main pipe. • Main pipe to Reducer PVC (floor flange) For this last step. Make sure the Segway board is lying flat on the table. Quickly step back and look at the handle bar assembly to make sure you twist them parallel to the table while the glue has not dried. How to Glue PVC: • Use the PVC cleaner wand (purple) to wipe cleaner on both parts to be bonded.

• Apply glue (clear color) to both sides. • Push pieces together and twist to spread the glue. The working time for the PVC glue is about 10 seconds. Make sure the switch is where you want it! Step 25: Mount Electronics Box to Platform. Get the 3pin charging connector and circular rocker power switch. • Drill a 5/8' hole with a spade bit in the end of the project box.

• Insert the 3 pin charge connector and put on lock nut. • Drill a 13/16' hole with a spade bit centered in the top of the project box for the power switch.

• Press fit switch in. Optional: Add a hole for USB access to the Arduino.

You can see white electrical tape covering mine in the pic above. • Place the Arduino with shield in the box aligned with the side away from the connector. • Mark the USB connector position on the inside of the box. • Transfer the center of the marks to the outside of the box. • Use a large drill bit to make a hole for the USB.

• Try to connect a USB cable to the Arduino. • Trim to fit using a Dremel tool or file. Step 29: Drill Project Box Holes and Pass Through Wires. I didn't shoot video of this step so look at this picture. Get your Arduino and your Dimension Engineering Motor Driver boards.

• Place both boards in box for test fit. Mark edges of board to ease hole placement. • Mark and drill 1/4' holes for power wires on side closest to batteries. Be sure not to hit the rubber wheels below!

• Use a Dremel tool or files to widen holes. An alternative is to use a bigger drill bit so wires will fit through more easily. • Drill a 1/4' hole 2.5' from these power wires hole.

This hole is for the control wires. • Push through all available wires now.

Make sure that the boards still fit in with wires in place. Step 30: Tack Down Wires and Connect Battery Wires. Get the 1/4' wire tacks and a short piece of extension cord. • Flip over the segway on a few 2x4's or a small bucket so you can work on the bottom. • Tack down wires that are loose by hammering in the small tacks.

• Snake the previously crimped battery cables through the battery holes. • Measure and tack the battery cables to arrive under the Project box. • Make a small (8') piece of extension cord cable to pass through hole into project enclosure. Strip all ends. • Twist together the batteries in 'series' per the schematic under the Project box location.

• Twist in the connector cable per schematic. • Add in short 8' cable per schematic. • Secure with 3 wire nuts or just solder and electrical tape. Step 31: Get Wires Ready. With all the wires sticking up from the project box: • Solder a short extension cord wire to the power switch as shown in the schematic and pictures. • Put electrical tape over the power switch to avoid any shorting.

• Place the motor controller and Arduino boards in the enclosure temporarily. • Find a good final length for the wires and cut them. • Strip the wire ends. • Using a soldering iron, 'tin' all the wires • Optional: Attach small terminals to the control wires. • You can use the straight terminals that came with the MPU6050. • Break them apart. • Use a hemostat or cardboard to hold them while soldering.

IMPORTANT NOTE: This is from the: 'Warning! Be very careful to wire and plug in the battery and connector correctly.

Connecting the battery backwards will destroy the Sabertooth and will void the warranty.' Step 32: Install Batteries and Quick Meter Check. Get the batteries and zip-ties. • Put the batteries on the board. • Thread the zip ties through the holes and around the batteries.

• Pull tight on the zip ties so the batteries are secure. • Trim off the ends of the zip ties with wore cutters. IMPORTANT NOTE: This is from the Dimension Engineering web.pdf for the Saber controller: 'Warning! Be very careful to wire and plug in the battery and connector correctly. Connecting the battery backwards will destroy the Sabertooth and will void the warranty.' Step 33: Install Electronics. Get the motor driver board, the Arduino and the Arduino shield.

• Place each board into the box as shown in the picture. • Secure each board with screws through the plastic and into the wood. • Connect the battery wires. • Connect the power wires to the motor controller as shown in the schematic. • BE SURE THE BATTERY WIRE POLARITY IS CORRECT. If the + and - are swapped, you will burn out the expensive motor driver board. • Install the Arduino shield board • Connect the control wires to the Arduino shield as shown in the schematic.

ALL WIRES MUST BE TWISTED AND KEPT VERY SHORT!!• Solder on the MPU6050 GY521 accelerometer/gyro board right angle pins that came with the board. • Insert the accelerometer/gyro right angle pins as shown in picture. Make sure that the component side faces the back of the board. • Wire up the pull up resistors, Vcc, GND, and I2C lines as shown in the schematic. Use twisted pair wiring for the I2C wires and keep them very short. ALL WIRES MUST BE TWISTED AND KEPT VERY SHORT!!• Connect the wires from the saber to the Arduino. Use twisted pair wiring and keep them very short.

ALL WIRES MUST BE TWISTED AND KEPT VERY SHORT!!• Check Saber dip switches match the picture for 9600 baud. This is to match the serial communication rate set in the Arduino code for communication between the Arduino and the Saber. This is the Saber 2x12 Data sheet for your reference: Step 34: Test! At this point, you should be ready to test out your Segway Clone!

• I would recommend setting the board up on a bucket so the wheels CAN'T touch the ground. • Turn on the power switch. Wait 8 seconds. • Hold the deadman switch down and move the board forward and backwards. • You should see the wheels spin in each direction. • If you see the red Error LED on the Saber flashing and the motors start to shake, you have low battery voltage.

You either need to charge your batteries OR replace them because they cant hold a full charge anymore. When this works: • Try out the board on the ground. • If forward and backward tilt are reversed, flip the pins in the Arduino code. • Try out the steering and tilt. • Pop out and flip the steering and tilt switches if they are reversed. • If you see the red Error LED on the Saber flashing and the motors start to shake, you have low battery voltage.

You either need to charge your batteries OR replace them because they cant hold a full charge anymore. Step 35: Optional: Debug. Before you start to debug, check the following: • All wiring is as short as possible as shown in this Instructable.

Long wires will get noise on them from the motors and the serial communication will fail. ALL WIRES MUST BE TWISTED AND KEPT VERY SHORT!!• The resistors shown in the schematic have been added. • The MPU6050 Accel/Gyro is installed and oriented as shown in the Instructable.

• The tilt switch is for minor comfort adjustments. Don't use it for the tuning. Just try tilting the board back and forth while the board is balanced on a bucket or stool. • Make sure to wait at least 5 seconds after power up for the MPU6050 to internally calibrate. • Make sure your batteries are fresh. Each battery should measure at least 12V when not under load.

If not, replace your batteries. This is optional for debug Arduino Serial Monitor Open the Arduino Serial Monitor. Set it for 115,200 baud The code has this line in it: Serial.begin(115200); // initialize I2C and serial monitor to 115,200 baud To enable printing to the serial monitor, set this to a 1: #define DEBUG_ENABLE_PRINTING 0 //normal If you are up on a bucket, to avoid holding the deadman switch, set this to a 1: #define DEBUG_FORCE_DEADMAN_SWITCH 0 //normal To just look at the serial monitor and not have the motors running, set this to a 1: #define DEBUG_DISABLE_MOTORS 0 //normal recompile.

The serial monitor screen should output something like this: Initializing I2C devices. Testing device connections. MPU6050 connection successfulI initializing DMP. Enabling DMP. Enabling interrupt detection (Arduino external interrupt 0).

Waiting for first interrupt. NOTE: If you turn on DEBUG_ENABLE_PRINTING and see a message that says: '1024 mpuIntStatus: 19FIFO overflow!' , don't worry about it. It is caused by the fact that printing out messages is a relatively slow task for the Arduino processor. While this printing is occurring, the control loop which is trying to pull accell/gyro data from the MPU6050 cant keep up.

Eventually, the FIFO holding this data in the MPU6050 has too much data or overflows. The FIFO will recover. When you are done with debug, disable DEBUG_ENABLE_PRINTING flag.

Oscilloscope: if you want to observe the 'loop time' of the Arduino code, you can use an oscilloscope to do this. It should be around 10Hz or 10 times per second.

• Hook a scope probe to Arduino pin 3. Don Camilo Guareschi Pdf To Word. Connect the ground as well. • Un-comment this lines in the code: // digitalWrite(oscopePin, HIGH); • recompile. To adjust the base tilt angle in the code: If the board powers up and wants to sit at a strange angle, you can use the tilt switch to tweak it OR, you can make a code change to permanently tweak it: Look for this line in the code and modify the 80 number to whatever you want: // Sensor tilt number below is Determined experimentally. Bigger is more tilted forward. It needs to change if you adjust ANGLE_GAIN.

X_accdeg = (float)((SG_filter_result - (80 + balancetrim)) * (1.0)); Step 36: Optional: Chain Tensioning Block. Low Cost Goal: My main goal in this project was to make it low cost and easy to build. A number of design decisions would have been different if the goal was long term reliability, range, power etc. Batteries: The 12V sealed lead acid batteries used in this project were ONLY chosen because they are very low cost.

They are really made for starting gas motors. They are not the best choice for a long life, deep discharge, rechargeable battery. They are prone to failure if they are discharged below 20% capacity. They must be charged after use to keep them from failing. I went through 2 sets of batteries before I learned this. Some reading on batteries: Deep discharge batteries will work better but cost more. Weak Point: I have found that one weak point of the design is at the interface between the PVC and the board.

If you push too hard on the PVC handle bars let's say in a crash, the PVC at that may crack. A design improvement would be to use a threaded metal pipe coming up from the board. The top threaded metal pipe would join the PVC at the handlebars. The PVC would have the switches in it. Motor Controller: The Dimension Engineering Saber motor controller was one of the most expensive parts of this project. I tried two cheaper ebay motor controllers using PWM driven by the Arduino.

They both failed to work well and so we needed to use the Saber part. It would be great to find a lower cost alternative to the Saber which is very well designed. Future Enhancements (as of 3/2014): Here are some future enhancement ideas I would like to see made to this Segway clone: • Voltage monitor circuit. This would be a pair of resistors set up as a voltage divider. They would bring the 24V range down to a 5V range and be monitored by an ADC input on the Arduino.

If the voltage dropped below a preset threshold for a certain period of time, the LED would flash at a 2Hz rate to let you know to recharge the battery. • More work to smooth the control algorithm. This Segway clone control is just OK. I think there could be more refinement to the gain adjustment and steering.

• Battery research to replace the $32 lead acid batteries with cheap LIPO or LiFePO4. • Find cheap encoders and add them to the wheels. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- UPDATE: Step 38: Conclusion. I hope you enjoyed this Instructable. This Segway clone could not have been done without the work of others in the Instructable community. If you make one of these Segway clones, please add a picture or video clip to the comments!

I will end this Instructable with a final safety warning: • Riding on a 2 wheel device that is inherently unstable is dangerous. You will fall off it and crash into things. You are responsible for your own safety. Wear protective gear. • The real Segway device can be dangerous even though it has safety shutoffs and error detection. This Segway clone has NO safety detection or elegant shutdown.

Ride at your own risk. • This Segway corporation video clip shows some of the dangers riding the real Segway may have. I found it useful to watch before riding this Segway clone.

Hi Ira, I almost gave up the construction, but I think I spent a lot of time on it, and it would be a shame. So here's a new question: I read in the instructable that the geared motors were sensitive to the back slashs. In addition, the gears generate a free play which must disturb the proper functioning of the gyroscope. Also, I intend to remove the gearbox and replace it with a sprocket and a wheel as you did. With a sprocket with 11 teeth and a wheel with 66 teeth, the ratio is 1/6. Your engine runs at 2650 RPM, so 440 rpm per minute on the wheel.

The engine I use runs at 4900 RPM With the 11-tooth sprocket and the 66-tooth wheel, the wheel will run at 816 RPM. We go from 440 RPM to 816 RPM.

The difference is quite significant. Can it be taken into account in the Arduino code, or is it necessary to choose another ratio with the number of teeth for the sprocket and the wheel? If we can act in Arduino code, what is the parameter to modify? (could be the ACC_GAIN?) Best regards, Jean-Claude. A photo of my (almost) completed project is attached. I used wheelchair motors/wheels because I had them. Other than that, 22AH batteries, and a larger (2X25) Sabertooth controller, the electrical and electronic portion is the same as in the Instructable.

So far, it's only traveled about 4 meters. After running for a few seconds, the wheels start to shake or chatter. I just read in previous comments that the Sabertooth may do that when too much current is being drawn. I have been unable to find the power usage for the motors that I'm using. I'm going to upgrade some of the wiring that I'm unsure of but I know most of it is 14 gauge. I may have to get scooter motors if all else fails.

Hi James, That looks great. I would consider replacing at least the bottom of the vertical bar with metal. There is another instructable I did that shows how to do this. The PVC can (will) snap at the base if you put a lot of force on it. 14AWG wiring should be fine for all the 24v stuff going to motors, batteries and Saber power. The motor will shake and chatter if the Saber determines that it is in over current. This could be due to dead batteries, undersized batteries or really big people riding up a hill.

I would suspect other problems first and your motors last. Thanks for the response. For the three wires going from the Arduino to the motor controller, which wires are twisted with which? It's a little difficult to follow those wires in the photos because that's also where several wires are exiting the box. I am testing it currently without steering and tilt adjust switches/wires to reduce possible noise locations. I still get chatter or erratic behavior after 30-60 seconds.

All cable on the 24V side is 14 or 12 gauge and the batteries are the same as those used for wheelchairs. (After one failed segway attempt, I put the batteries into a lawnmower that I converted to electric and was able to mow for 45 minutes, so I'm sure they have enough charge.) I saw your information about the PVC. I thought I could overcome it by using a different attachment method and by hot-gluing a 1' PVC pipe inside the outer one, but it's definitely weak at the threaded area. I've bought materials to correct it. @Vmtr The wires just need to be twisted to block magnetic coupling. Actually, each wire could be twisted in a curl by itself and it would have the desired effect. You do need the twist.

You also need the proper pullup resistor installed per the schematic to prevent I2C noise. It sounds like your battery is OK. There is gyro drift if you leave the segway alone for a while. This may make the wheels turn if it's sitting for 30secs. Chattering could be overcurrent.

The light on the saber would flash red if this were happeneing. Have you tried just finishing the build and trying to actually ride the segway? I had ridden it a couple of times just before I posted the photo. That's when I experienced the chatter (on a flat driveway with a 185 pound rider). Still, it worked well enough that I don't want to give up now.

I have put it back on blocks to test some things - different motors, heavier wire, etc. The Sabertooth error light does blink when the motors chatter, which seems odd because it happens when the machine is on saw horses - no weight, no hills, good batteries. The twisting of wires is a lesser concern but the motors do occasionally go into high speed without reason. I'm currently checking my wiring against the schematic to try to spot mistakes. I made some progress yesterday. Among other things, I made some changes to the wiring. The way that I originally had the resistors connected on a small breadboard should have worked, but I changed it to look more like the photos.

It seems to have made a difference; I rode farther than before without issues. I'm not quite ready to declare victory over the electrons, but things are looking up. I also replaced the vertical PVC with 3/4' iron pipe, so am no longer worried about pushing on the handle too hard.

Hi Ira, I continue my investigations to have a good functioning In view of the various comments in the instructable, I see that there are several people who have the same dysfunction, namely a wheel that turns slowly. According to you, this is due to a noise in the system.

You also point out that the system noise can have a bad effect on the I2C bus with all the consequences we know (motor going mad, vibration) So, am I right with the following assertion: 'As long as you have a slowly rotating wheel, it means that the bus can be disturbed by the motors whatever the reason either Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) or ElectroMagnetic Interference (EMI)' In short, seeing a slow-moving wheel is an indicator of malfunction, and even if it does not interfere with driving, it is very important to find the cause. Best regards, Jean-Claude Ps: unlike other people on the internet, you always give an answer to questions which are asked.

It's very kind of you. Hi Ira, Thank you for your reply. You advise to reproduce the malfunction of the rotating wheel to draw hypotheses. In fact, the fault is always present at power up and without having to press the dead man switch.

Unfortunately, I have no other elements apart from the fact that the 2 motors I use come from an old wheelchair. They are probably more powerful than the motors you use. In the instructable's, you also wrote that gear motors are more prone to hooking (back lash). Do you think it is better to have a softer system with a chain transmission. If so, I could try to keep my actual motors, removing the gearbox and replacing it with sprockets and chain. Regarding the question I posed in my previous post, you do not answer directly. It is true that my English is not perfect, and it is possible that I have expressed myself badly.

That is why I ask it again in other words: 2 - According to you, a wheel that rotates slowly does not affect the driving of the clone segway 1 - always according to you, it is an electric noise that causes the wheel to turn 3 - EFI or EMI electrical noise can disturb the I2C bus 4 - so, as long as a wheel rotates slowly, this means that there is electrical noise and therefore the system is not reliable because the I2C bus is exposed to disturbances 5 - in fact, and in short, a spinning wheel is actually an alert Do you agree with my point of view? Best regards Jean-Claude. Hello Ira, After a long period of inactivity, I resume the development of my segway clone. My Sabertooth card has been repaired by the manufacturer (fast and free repair) This is the report of the after sales service: The damage was caused by the inhibition of the regenerative current. If the motors could be spun when power is switched off from the 2x25, then use a power switch in parallel with a diode. In my case, I use two motors with an angle drive (worm). Therefore, it is not possible to run the engine by rotating the wheel.

So I do not really know why the card was damaged. Now, I am able to repeat the tests. There are still two malfunctions 1 - direction of rotation By tilting the gyroscope towards the rear, the motors also rotate towards the rear. So it's normal. On the other hand, by tilting the gyroscope forward, at the start the engines turn forwards, but from a certain point, they turn towards the rear. In addition, the forward speed is slower than the reverse speed. 2 - motors vibrate and stop At random, engines behave abnormally I changed the MPU6050_6Axis_MotionApps20.h library by changing the last number, but that does not change anything.

I use engines that are very different from yours. They must have a more powerful torque, and must use a higher current. Would any gain and sensitivity parameters be changed in the code? Thank you in advance for your help Jean Claude.

Hi Jean Claude, Welcome back. You have 2 problems.

The direction of rotation issue is due to electromagnetic noise being coupled into the serial communications. You need to have a common ground tie point. All the wires especially the I2C and Saber serial wires need to be twisted. The vibrating motors are caused by the saber telling you it is in over-current mode. They vibrate the motors for you when that happens. You will also see the lights flashing red on the saber when this happens.

This can be due to undersized power wires or more likely a battery that cannot produce the current you need. You may need to charge or replace your 12 batteries. Each should measure at least 12V when you start. Thanks for your answer. All point you preconize have been already taken in account (one point tie ground + wires twisted by pair + connection as short as possible + pull resistors + battery fully charge + DIP configured as indicated in the instructable + wire with very large section) The wiring has been verified against the schematic, and the construction is quite neat.

So now, I am a bit disappointed, and I am about to give up. To me, the only solution seems to find a local hight level technician to find out what could be wrong. Best regards.

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